The Beaverhead near
Twin Bridges, Montana
Submitted by
Michele Murray |
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Two of my dear ol' aunties mentioned to my
mother that my fishing stories have more to do with drinking than with
fishing. In consequence of that criticism, I submit this semi-technical
account of fishing on the Beaverhead, above it's confluence with the Big
hole on the Jefferson River, near Twin Bridges, Montana.
The following is a recount of a story told to me by our friend, Tony, who
lives in Ramsay, Montana and who introduced Doug and I to the Beaverhead
part of the Jefferson River. Since everyone's got to have their own drift
boat, Tony bought Doug's older, hand-hewn wooden dory, the
"Rub-a-Dub-Tub". At first glance, The Tub looks like a nicely
crafted McKenzie/Rouge-style dory, though it's not as streamlined as
modern river dories. Its sides are almost 4 feet high - making for
significant drag in even a light breeze, which is one of the reasons Doug
bought a Clackacraft. He was tired of being blown up river and having to
row like a slave at sea in order to make the take-outs before midnight.
Mostly, the Rub-a-Dub-Tub is a hybrid of someone's Dad's ideas, probably
birthed in a home garage with a bunch of birdfeeders and doghouses.
Though the Beaverhead is usually the color of weak coffee above its
confluence with the Big Hole, its murky holes contain abundant, large
browns with hooked noses and stickery teeth. Tony likes to float-fish from
above the confluence to about 5 miles down through their united lineage
using tan and gray muddlers, black and green wooly buggers with gold
chrome, and glittery gold, treble-hook Rapalas with crimped barbs for
catch and release purposes. Of course, if bugs are coming off the water,
you can always use an Elk-hair Caddis pattern, not too small. You want
something you can see against the green water. On iffy days, orange and
yellow attractor patterns and Royal Wulffs are good. Never get on the
Jefferson without a grasshopper, either, if the weather is going to be
hot.
Tony
puts The Tub in at Twin Bridges' community park and takes out on BLM
property above Silver Star. This stretch of the Jefferson is not very
technical, except for a rare submerged Cottonwood tree after a heavy
rainstorm. The first stretch of this run is not too scenic, unless you're
into cement blocks and other aggregate concretions. The Beaverhead is
heavily used for agricultural purposes and is confined like an irrigation
canal between artificial banks of cement blocks with an occasional iron
Re-bar sticking out. Above the confluence with the Big Hole, most of the
land is privately owned, though in Montana, that is not a fishing issue.
Rather, you look out on the backyards of houses and see people's laundry
and hear kids barking and dogs giggling in the background. The river
character changes below the confluence to a braided-meander with shallow
sandbars and abundant islands, which make for diverse wade fishing and
nymphing of the riffles. This rest of this expanse runs through natural
over-bank flood plains, heavily treed with cottonwoods and bushes, being
chock full of wildlife. You'll always see deer and maybe something more
unusual, like a skunk or Big Foot, even. However, the main channel is
consistently deep through this flood plain and allows for dory expedition,
even when local irrigation makes the river run low in the late summer
months.
The lack of professional shuttle services
in this vicinity means that Tony has to coordinate with his buddies to get
the boat around. Tony will often extend a spontaneous invitation to a
bunch of guys at one time, hoping someone will turn up. One time, a group
of 7 big guys with names like, "Tank" and "Bubby",
showed up with all their gear, lunch and 15 cases of cheap beer.
Tony
has a magic way of assessing disaster. He's confident and competent - a
good combination when you need to get a tricky job done. He'll roll a
great big fat cigar around on his jaw while he's thinking, then he'll
usually provide a solution. At that time, Tony eyeballed the crew and
their mass of stowage, rocked back and forth from one leg to the other, as
he's known to do while he's thinking, and rolled the cigar around from one
corner of his mouth to the other. In a few minutes, he had a plan: two
guys standing, two guys sitting up front, one helmsman in the middle, two
guys sitting, one guy standing in the back. They'd have to stack the cases
of beer as benches. (Sooner than later, they wouldn't have to worry about
that commodity any more.) Everyone put this vision into action -- not
wanting to be left behind, confined like an exile to fish from the banks
of the community park, only to return home without having gotten on the
river at all. When they disembarked, the tall sides of The Tub were
submerged to within 3 inches of the gunnels. She groaned a little, too,
bobbing down-stream.
Casting aboard The Tub had to be accomplished in regimens, 3 at a time.
Not everyone in Tony's crew used the popular patterns. Most of them used
Rapalas and found satisfaction in trolling behind the brave wooden boat or
just flicking the lure along side, or even under the keel for those Navy
Seal type trout. A few of them had worms, though, of the real and alive
variety, as opposed to the rubber ones, and maybe even some Powerbait, if
worse came to worse. All in all, fish were going to be had. Everyone was
glad to be included, looking forward to a fine day on the river, far from
thoughts of oil to be changed, gutters to be repaired, manure to be
spread, and the likes of a bazillion other weekend duties waiting for
their attention at home.
Though
Tony is a bonafide, country-raised Montana native, he's traveled and
fished with a global variety of fancy-pants, politically correct
fishermen, and has an influence on the fishing practices aboard his
vessel. This was fortunate for the crew of The Tub, as most of the barbs
were crimped. Also, Tony had a preference for practicing catch &
release procedures. However, sometimes the method of release included
stepping on the fish's head and yanking the hook (and lips) off the fish's
face. Another method was to hug the flapping critter to your chest with an
arm and rip the gear out of its mouth with your other hand. Freeing the
trout was more like getting rid of a sticky old sock. You grip the freed
fish like a machete and fling it overhead baseball fashion as far across
the water as possible, as though that distance were part of the
performance. In this way, the men were practicing Montana-style catch
& release. It was better than biting their little heads off, squishing
the guts out the gaping hole and stuffing them in a pocket. The effort was
in a primary state, in need of future nurturing. Mostly, though, large,
terrible trout were kept in the bilge near the feet of the hunter, to be
made into dinner when they got home.
The worried helmsman could only use the oars to direct the submerged belly
of the engorged dory down the main channel. The Tub lumbered slowly,
slightly dipping from side to side. The men were careful to hold their
positions and use their weight to keep the gunnels above water. The first
2 miles of the Beaverhead below Twin Bridges, being confined by steep
banks of cement, runs deep and sure requiring little negotiation from the
oarsman. Occasionally, though, the sound of flat-hull scraping over some
hidden threat resulted in momentary silence and big eyes from the crew.
But, the reliant Tub just kept drifting on.
Unfortunately
for the underwater fauna, the arrival of this nearly submerged vessel
hailed what seemed to a trout to be a very interesting clutter of brightly
colored, glittery, clicking and flicking devices, probably like a school
of minnows or some other underwater hatch accompanying an errant manatee.
So, it was that Tony's crew managed to bring a keel-load aboard of
assorted size Browns with a rare Rainbow and even one tenacious crawdad,
clinging and cursing in crustacean-style to a poor, shredded worm's neck,
the head having been severed off by some quick, nimble old fish as a
favorite trout joke. Some of the fish were so large they could impress
professional tuna hunters (if a tuna hunter were to be taking holiday on
the Jefferson River). These especially large animals accumulated and their
weight added to The Tub's cargo.
About mid-morning, the crew was coming up
on the Beaverhead's confluence with the Big Hole. Tank had been operating
the anchor for drag effect to slow The Tub down. He also had his line
hanging over the stern dragging a gold and silver Rapala in a nice
foam-line. The Tub entered an eddy and began to spin at her own free will,
uncontainable by, Bubby, the helmsman. Tank's line became tangled up in
the anchor line and he launched into a hoopla over the mess, blaming the
guy at the oars. So, another guy, Chuck, addressed the problem by chomping
Tank's line off with his teeth and, at the same time, nursing his own line
over the stern. That action enraged Tank and words flew. During this
tirade, Chuck got a strike and began reeling his line in, which also
became entangled with the anchor line. The result of that bad luck was a
stern discussion between Chuck and Tank, the latter of which was holding
an empty rod in his hand.
Of course, when Tank pulled up the anchor to retrieve his lure, he also
gave Chuck's line a liberating chomp. This made Chuck even less amiable.
The intensity of the spat went up a notch and the whole rest of the crew
now ate up this amusement. When Tank finished pulling the anchor clear of
the water, everyone saw that an enormous Brown trout flopped around,
dangling from the anchor line with a lure stuck in its lip and two
different colored leaders wrapped around its poor body. Everyone was just
amazed at this sight. Chuck immediately claimed the fish to be his own,
caught on his line that Tank bit off. Tank disagreed. This fish was hooked
on his line that Chuck bit off - and he qualified even further, because he
was the one operating the anchor line and tangled leaders, which ensnared
the trout.
The ensuing argument took on serious magnitude until Tony intervened by
offering to examine the lines and lure as an uninterested third party.
Tony inspected the fish to make sure it wasn't foul hooked, then the lure
and leaders. Tony announced his findings and all seemed clear whose fish
it belonged to. But, words of frustration and bickering continued to be
passed between Tank and Chuck not only the rest of the day, but for the
rest f their lives. The element of suspicion is that Tank could describe
the trout-catching leader, but not his lure, and Chuck could not only
describe the lure, but he also presented a duplicate from his pocket.
Therein lies the discrepancy of Tony's call to this day.
In the middle of this fine expedition, in the middle of this fine day, in
the middle of a particularly deep and rushing part of the Jefferson River,
an astute one of the crew noticed a knothole the size of a slice of
bologna about 6 inches up from the floor in the side of the wooden dory.
The knothole was bulging at its seam and leaking beads of water. If that
plug were to give, there would be a gush of water that could cut a man in
half. The hull would most likely split in two from the release of pressure
between the river on its outside and the weight of the 8 big men on the
inside. The knothole was fret with sweat. They all looked at the disk as
if some radioactive grenade had fallen to the floor from outer space.
As I said before, Tony has a magic way of assessing disaster. With
realistic authority, Tony directed the helmsman to steer for the nearest
bank, and he somehow managed to swing the bow over. The dory slid to a
comfortable rest about 5 feet out from the shore, but in shallow water.
Like Viking arrivals, the men dispersed themselves and their gear to land
and immediately sought bushes. Tony and one of his mechanically deft
crewmembers reviewed the situation while the others lightened the horde of
solids (Vienna sausages, bananas, string cheese, other man-food...) and
liquids (beer) by consuming them for the sake of safety. A reconsolidating
of the necessary items (leftover beer and empty, crushed potato chip bags)
made for the dory to be much roomier than before. Now, only 3 at a time
were permitted in the boat. The rest had to wade-fish from the bank,
moving downstream to keep up with the dory. Every once in a while, Tony
would administrate an exchange between drifters and waders. At the
end-point of an island, gear and men were transported together to the next
landing, which allowed all of them to refresh their beer holding gullets.
All
in all, a great time was had and many fish were caught that day, (and some
trout were released with or without parts of their face). The Tub was
deemed by everyone to be a fine fishing vessel, a boat to be reckoned with
by professional standards. Tony was a lucky man to have such a dependable
dory. The only glitch in the day's events might have been Tank and Chuck's
entanglement, though that situation also provided much entertainment to
the rest of the group. Perhaps the worse they experienced occurred as a
result of the shuttle, in that they couldn't all fit in the crew-cab
pickup. At that point, some of them opted to wait for a ride rather than
participate in another of Tony's problem-solving schemes.
All text, photos and graphics Copyright
� 2001 by Michele Murray. No
reproduction, linking, or copying without permission
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